Sourdough Starters 101

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by Jacob Burton on September 22, 2009

There are few things more exciting and rewarding then making your own, fresh, artisan bread from a natural sourdough starter. Commonly misunderstood, artisan baking with the use of a sourdough starter is a dying art, relegated to a drawer full of failed and labor intensive recipes never to be attempted again.

But fear not; this article will jump start your understanding of not only the underlying chemistry of sourdough starters, but also how to make and maintain your very own.

What Is A Sourdough Starter?

A sourdough starter is nothing more than a mixture of water and flour that contains natural occurring yeast. Back before the advent of Active Dry Yeast and Instant Dry Yeast, this is how bakers, even at home, made their fresh breads, often daily.

Bread baking as a whole has really lost popularity, with people being resigned to purchasing mediocre bread at their local supermarket if they’re not lucky enough to have a neighborhood bake shop. And even then, the mark-up is incredible.

Just to put the price into perspective, I purchased a 50# bag of bread flour at Costco the other day for a total of $12.95. If you buy four or five loaves of artisan sourdough from your local baker, chances are that you’ve already paid for that 50# sack.

What Gives Sourdough Its Unique Flavor?

The unique sour flavor comes from the bacteria that love to live in sourdough starters. Much like yeast, these bacteria will consume the sugars present in the flour, and in turn give off carbon dioxide (which helps your bread to rise), as well as acid.

The two most common acids that are produced by these bacteria are lactic acid and acetic acid (the same form of acid found in vinegar). It is the acetic acid that gives sourdough its signature sour flavor, and the lactic acid helps balance the acetic’s harsh bite. Without the lactic acid being present, the acetic acid will take over the flavor of the sourdough.

But if the thought of having bacteria living in your sourdough starter scares you, don’t fret. These bacteria are harmless and very territorial; the acidic environment they create is uninhabitable for most other forms of bacteria. Not to mention that the finished internal temperature for most bread is around 195 F, plenty hot to kill any harmful bacteria that may be present.

What Are The Different Types Of Sourdough Starters?

There are three main types of sourdough starter which I’ve listed below. They all work fine, and which one you use will depend more on your own personal preference and how often you want to use your sourdough starter for bread making.

Biga

A biga is basically a stiff sourdough starter with a 50-60% water content by weight. This is favored by bakers who don’t bake more then once or twice a week, because it takes longer for the Biga to reach its peak fermentation stage, especially when retarded in the refrigerator. Although you can start a Biga with natural yeast from the skins of fruit or from rye flour, because of its stiff quality, it is much more difficult to get this form of sourdough starter going.

If you still want to work with a Biga starter, I would recommend starting a Poolish, (see below), and then once it is active, add more flour to reduce the water content to the appropriate 50-60%.

Poolish

A Poolish starter is similar to the Biga except that it has a higher water content; in fact, its a straight 1:1 ratio by weight. So for every 100 grams of flour, you will also add 100 grams of water.

The easiest way to inoculate this form of starter with yeast is the addition of fruit peels (apples, grapes, pear, etc).

Scrap Dough

A Scrap Dough Starter is just how it sounds; after a bread dough is kneaded and before it is left to proof, a small piece of dough is cut off and reserved for the next batch of bread. This is an old school technique favored by cooks who use to bake fresh bread every day, before the advent of supermarkets.

How Do I Make My Own Sourdough Starter?

If you’re interested in making your very own sourdough starter, just follow this simple recipe below. This recipe will be enough to make about four medium sized sourdough loaves with some starter left over.

You will need:

  • 800g bread flour
  • 800g warm water
  • The peels of two apples
  • A 2ft section of cheese cloth
  1. Mix bread flour and warm water together thoroughly with either a wooden spoon or the dough hook attachment of your KitchenAid, (always mix on the second speed).
  2. Once the flour and water are evenly combined, resembling an extremely loose dough, place in a container large enough to allow the starter to at least double in size.
  3. Place the apple peels in a cheesecloth pouch and shove down in the center of the sourdough starter. The peels can be added directly to the starter without the cheesecloth, but you will eventually have to separate the peels from the starter, which can be a pain.
  4. Cover the container with a clean towel and place it in a warm but not hot place in your kitchen. You should start to see some initial activity in about 3-5 days.
  5. Once your starter is bubbling and has doubled in size, remove half from the container (about 800g) and replace with 400g water and 400g bread flour.
  6. Let sit out at room temperature overnight.
  7. If in the next day it has doubled in size and seems very active, then repeat step #5. After feeding, you can now cover your starter with a lid and place in your refrigerator for storage.

Feeding Schedule

If you store your Poolish Sourdough Starter in the fridge once it’s active, you will need to feed it about every 3-7 days by removing half of the starter and replacing it with a equal parts water and flour.

If you starter seems to become “inactive” you can usually revive it by the same process as above, and letting it sit out at room temperature overnight.

OK, So I’ve Made A Starter, Now What?

Stay tuned for our the next podcast episode and blog post where we’ll have an in depth discussion on how to take your active sourdough starter and use it to bake your very own artisan sourdough loaf.

For more information about sourdough starters and pre-ferments, listen to FCS Eisode 18| Sourdough Starters and Pre-Ferments.

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{ 15 comments… read them below or add one }

jeanine October 5, 2009 at 9:35 pm

love your podcast, I speak at career day at our local schools and so many kids/teenagers want to become chefs i always tell them to listen to your podcast, it is great information
kudo’s to you..keep up the great work,
best,
jeanine Dimenna

Jacob Burton October 8, 2009 at 6:53 pm

Thanks Jeanine, I really appreciate it. Inspiring the next generations of chef’s is one of the greatest compliments that you can give me. Thanks for your support.

Edouard January 19, 2010 at 9:31 am

Thanks for the great podcast and for the lots of info i’m learning from your site. I have made my own pooloish starter yesterday and made a thread in the forum I will post some pics of it too. I hope it grows nicely.

Irene February 24, 2010 at 10:58 am

Hi Jacob, it’s a while now since I started making sourdough. If you remember I said my dough was too soft and just spread out in the pan. I am happy to say that as my starter has aged the dough has become easier to work with. I have also changed my flour brand and I make bread three times a week and it is fabulous. Thank you so much for all your help.
Irene

Faye March 10, 2010 at 3:37 pm

I made a poolish yesterday. This morning it had a dried out crust and it had a greenish/black color. Is my poolish any good? Also, do I need to use bread flour for the poolish?

Jacob Burton April 20, 2010 at 9:34 pm

@Irene,

I’m sooo glad to hear that your sourdough is working out good for you. Bake ON!

@Faye,

If it has a greenish/black color then I would definitely through it out and try again.

John May 20, 2010 at 8:51 am

I made my 1st starter using the method of using apple skins and I have a bunch of clear liquid on the top . The smell almost borders on cesspool, so I think I need to go back to the drawing board. My question is how long should the apple skin stay in the POOL?

Jacob Burton May 22, 2010 at 11:35 am

The apples should stay in the starter just until you start to see your starter come to life (tiny little bubbles on the surface). The liquid seperation on top happens to young starters when they get hungry. It is all the excess alcohol tht is given off from the yeast’s feast. Pour off the excess water and feed more frequently.

Matt Sullivan June 28, 2010 at 4:41 pm

I just made my first starter yesterday, and I really can’t wait to turn it into sweet, sweet bread.

However (there has to be a however, right?) it’s been pretty warm here in the Northeast. Really warm. It hit 95 today. So, one day later my poolish is looking very active and smells quite… potent.

No odd colors, and the smell isn’t *terrible*, it smells like very strong sourdough bread actually.

Very strong.

Is this normal?

Jacob Burton July 4, 2010 at 3:24 pm

@ Matt,

This is normal. At this point I’d probably find a place in your fridge for your starter to live or you will wind up with a beast on your hands. Good luck.

Ryan August 8, 2010 at 10:25 am

What is the difference between 50% water (Biga) and a 1:1 ratio of water to flour (Poolish)? I assume the other 50% in a Biga starter is flour no? Wouldn’t that too be 1:1? If it was 60% water by weight, that would be more water than the 1:1 by weight of a Poolish. Am I missing something?

-Ryan

Jacob Burton August 8, 2010 at 11:07 am

Anytime you discuss percentages in baking it is always based on the flour being at 100%. This is called the bakers percentage. For example, a 100% hydration starter would be 100% water and 100% flour by weight. Another way to look at it is 100g water and 100g flour. Instead of the percentage being based on the total weight of the dough, it is always based on the flour. This allows you scale recipes up or down easily because water percentage is a huge deciding factor in what type of bread you will be baking.

So for the biga, 60% hydration would mean 100g flour and 60g water or 1000g flour and 600g water, etc. Ratios on the other hand are always based upon the whole weight of the dough, so a 1:1 ratio of water to flour can be expressed as 100g water/100g flour or 100% hydration.

Ryan August 8, 2010 at 12:08 pm

Thanks Jacob. That is an excellent explanation. Keep up the good work.

-Ryan

Aaron August 11, 2010 at 8:10 am

Hey Jacob, just stumbled across your site. Very good stuff so far.

So I’m very very much a beginner at all of this. I’ve got a good sense for cooking, heck a lot of my friends say I’m really good at it (I disagree but alas if their stomachs like it, so do I!), but baking and dealing with dough in specific is something I’ve never really tried and its something I”ve always been intimidated by. So I’m trying to get over that – and what better way then just jump in head first to this huh?

I’ve started off putting together a poolish starter, with the intent of switching over to Biga (I know even if I get the hang of this, I won’t be baking all that much, so I figure this made sense ). This is day two right now, so I figure I’m just going to keep up with the 1:1 ratio for just a bit longer, and then I’m going to cut it in half, swap out the regular flour for bread flour, and start using the Biga portions.

Will let you know how it goes :)

Jacob Burton August 15, 2010 at 10:29 pm

Hey Aaron, welcome to the site. The best way to learn how to cook is to just jump in head first. I saw that you already joined the forum which is another great way to learn. Lots of smart people hang out over there.

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