How To Make Mayonnaise, Aioli and Their Derivatives

by Jacob Burton on October 16, 2008

Like many of the mother sauces, a well made mayonnaise is the base to an endless possibility of cold, emulsified sauces. Although now days there are many good quality commercial mayonnaise available, understanding how to make a mayonnaise is basic knowledge that every cook or chef should have. Not to mention, that with the selection and use of high quality products, fresh made mayonnaise can have a far superior flavor to that of its commercial counterparts.

Some Guidelines for Making Mayonnaise

  • Use a blender, food processor or a KitchenAid with a whisk attachment. Not only will it insure that your arm doesn’t fall off from hand whisking, but the shearing power of these devices is capable of breaking the oil into much smaller droplets, making a more stable emulsion.
  • Have both your egg yolks and oil at room temperature before starting. It will make the emulsification process much easier.
  • Use the freshest eggs possible, preferably organic from a farmer’s market. If cooking for children or the elderly, pasteurized egg yolks are always recommended.

Standard Ratio for Mayonnaise

At it’s most basic level, mayonnaise is simply a neutral oil emulsified into egg yolks. The ratio for a basic mayonnaise is:

  • 1 yolk per 1 cup of neutral oil (canola, safflower, grape seed).

Although many classical recipes call for the addition of other ingredients, egg yolks and oil are all you need to make a mayonnaise. Some additional ingredients that are used to season mayonnaise are:

  • Vinegar
  • Salt
  • Pepper (usually white)
  • Dry Mustard
  • Cayenne Pepper
  • Lemon Juice

Standard Recipe For 2 Cups of Mayonnaise

  1. 2 egg yolks
  2. 1/2 table spoon of vinegar
  3. 1/2 teaspoon salt
  4. 1/2 teaspoon dry mustard
  5. Small Pinch cayenne
  6. 2 cups Salad Oil (canola preferred)
  7. 1 Tablespoon Vinegar
  8. 1-2 Tablespoons Lemon Juice
  • Put ingredients 1-5 into a blender, food processor or KitchenAid with a whisk attachment and mix well.
  • Very slowly at first, start streaming in your oil, a little at a time until your emulsification starts to form.
  • Use the 1 tablespoon of vinegar to thin the mayonnaise if it starts to become too thick before the emulsification is complete.
  • Once all the oil is incorporated into egg yolks and the mayonnaise is finished, it should be thick enough to be turned upside down without the mayonnaise coming out of the mixing container.
  • Adjust the final seasoning with the lemon juice, salt and pepper (white, cayenne or black pepper depending on preference).

What’s The Difference Between Mayonnaise and Aioli

A common question asked is what’s the difference between mayonnaise and aioli. Now days, the term aioli has been bastardized by some chefs to be synonymous with any flavored mayonnaise. However, there is an exacting classical distinction between mayonnaise and aioli.

The difference between mayonnaise and aioli is the simple fact that aioli is made with extra virgin olive oil and has the addition of crushed garlic. So to make aioli, follow the standard recipe above, but instead, substitute the canola oil for extra virgin olive oil and add 1 tablespoon of fresh minced garlic to the egg yolks during the blending/beating process.

The simplified ratio for Aioli is:

  • 1 egg yolk + 1 cup extra virgin olive oil + 1 teaspoon of crushed garlic = Aioli.
  • This ratio can be simply seasoned with lemon juice, salt and pepper to yield a simple and traditional Aioli.

Mayonnaise Based Sauces

As stated before, mayonnaise is a great base to use for making other unique sauces. One of my all time favorite cook books “Charcuterie” by Michael Rhulman and Brian Polcyn, makes these suggestions:

  • For Pork try adding some cumin, cayenne and lime juice.
  • For Fish add saffron and garlic.
  • For Chicken add lemon juice and tarragon.
  • For Beef add a little fresh horse radish (I would also recommend some fresh chopped chives).

Another very traditional mayonnaise based sauce is Remoulade which is traditionally served with fish. To make a traditional remoulade you will need:

  • 2 Cups of Mayonaise
  • About 1 tablespoon of good Dijon
  • 1/4 cup finely chopped cornichons (Tiny, French, Sweet Pickles)
  • Tablespoon chopped capers
  • 1 anchovy fillet, finely chopped
  • 3 tablespoons chopped parsey
  • 1 teaspoon chopped fresh chervil
  • 1 teaspoon chopped fresh tarragon

Mix all ingredients together and serve with fish. This is a great dipping sauce for fish and chips!

To make other mayonnaise based sauces, start with 2 cups of freshly made or neutral store bought mayonnaise and add:

  • Thousand Island Dressing: 1/2 cup chili sauce, 1/2 ounce minced onion, 1 ounce finely chopped green pepper, 1 ounce drained pimiento.
  • Louis Dressing: same as Thousand Island with the addition of 1/2 cup heavy cream.
  • Russian Dressing: 1/2 cup chili sauce or catsup, 1 ounce fresh horseradish, 1.2 ounce minced onion.
  • Chantilly: 1/2 cup of heavy creamed whipped until a stiff peak and added in just before service.
  • Blue Cheese Dressing: substitute one cup of mayonnaise for one cup of sour cream (optional but really good), add 1 ounce white vinegar, /2 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce, 4 ounces crumbled bleu cheese; thin with 1-2 cups heavy cream, half and half or buttermilk.
  • Ranch Dressing: 1 1/2 cups sour cream, 1/2 cup buttermilk, 2 ounces wine vinegar of your choice, 1/2 ounce lemon juice, 1/2 ounce Worcestershire sauce, 2 Tablespoons chopped parsley, 1 tablespoon chopped chives, 1-2 crushed garlic cloves, 1 scallion (green onion) finely chopped, 2 teaspoons celeryseed.

For more information on mayonnaise and it’s derivatives, liste to The Free Culinary School Podcast Eipsode 9.

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{ 4 comments… read them below or add one }

Culinary Hopeful January 27, 2009 at 7:09 pm

Hello!

Thanks for the great writeup on this. I was hoping to ask a few questions because I have tried to make Aioli three times now with no success.

(I tried to make Aioli instead of mayo because I love the taste of olive oil and garlic, so I wanted to try this first)

The first time I tried using my immersion blender to mix my oil and egg yolk. I realized my mistake that time in that I added all the oil at once then tried to create the emulsion which is not correct.

The second time I tried to make it I added a small amount of oil at first… just enough so that my immersion blender could “grab onto” the liquid. However, I couldn’t get an emulsion to form.

The third time I used my blender and added just enough oil to the yolk so that the blades could catch, but again I couldnt get an emulsion to form. Perhaps I streamed the oil in too quickly after the initial mixing?

I know my eggs are fresh because the eggs I used I pulled from under the hens this morning :) So the only thing I can think of is too much oil was added to start, or I was impatient and added more oil too soon.

Following your instructions of 2 egg yolks to 2 cups of oil, how long should it take in a blender to first get an emulsion and then to get completed aioli? I wound up running my blender for so long trying to get an emulsion that I might have cooked the eggs from the heat intead ;)

Thanks in advance!

Jacob January 28, 2009 at 9:14 pm

@ Culinary Hopeful,

I think the problem is that you’re adding too much oil initially and too quickly. If you’re having a problem actually blending the yolks and the garlic in your blender, try adding a tablespoon or two of water and then blend with the yolks.

Once the yolks, garlic and the little bit of water are blended, slowly start adding your olive oil, just a couple of drops at a time.

As the emulsion starts to form, raise the speed on your blender, and continue adding your oil until it is all incorporated.

The higher speed on the blender blade will give you more “shearing” power, causing the oil to break up into smaller droplets, making a more stable emulsion.

Let me know if this worked for you.

Oren June 24, 2009 at 7:21 am

Hi,

A great trick for “fixing” mayonaisse which didn’t “catch” is to start over from the beginning, blending another egg yolk or two and very very slowly adding the non-emulsified yolk+oil mixture., the same way you would if you were just adding oil. (Apologies if you mentioned this in the podcast, I haven’t had a chance to listen to it yet). No need to throw out ingredients.

Jacob July 28, 2009 at 2:56 am

Great tip Oren; I think I mentioned that in the podcast, but if I didn’t, I should have. :-)

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