How To Cook Risotto

by Jacob Burton on July 8, 2008

Lobster and Wild Mushroom RisottoRisotto is made with Italian grown Arborio rice. Arborio has rice kernels that are shorter and fatter than other short-grained rice. The kernels contain a high amount of starch which is what gives risotto its creamy texture.

A common misconception is that cream is added to risotto to give it its creamy texture. Classic risotto in fact does not contain any cream. Although adding cream is not the worst of culinary sins, it should be added for richness and flavor, not texture. More on this later.

Risotto Technique

To make the perfect risotto:

  • Start by sweating shallots in a pan with butter and a little salt, until the shallots are soft and tender. For every 1lb of Arborio, you will need to use 2-4oz of butter and sweat about 5 shallots.
  • Add the Arborio rice to the pan, stirring with a wooden spoon until the rice kernels are evenly coated with the butter. Do not brown.
  • Side Note: You don’t have to use butter for your fat. Any fat will do such as pork, duck, or olive oil. Butter is just the classical choice. Take into consideration the flavor profile the fat you choose will impart on the finished risotto. As far as most chefs are concerned, butter is KING!
  • Once the rice is sautéed and coated evenly, add hot stock or water that is simmering in a separate pot, one ladle at a time.
  • Note: For every cup of Arborio rice, you will need at least 3 cups of hot stock or other liquid
  • Very gently simmer rice while constantly stirring.
  • Once the rice absorbs the first ladle of liquid, add more, one ladle at a time, stirring constantly. Repeat until the Arborio is soft but still al dente, and the starches have released from the kernel making Risotto nice and creamy.
  • Finish by stirring in butter and freshly grated Parmesan.

If at all possible, use the correct corresponding stock of the protein you will be serving the risotto with. For example, if you will be serving it with fish, use a fish stock; if you will be serving your risotto with beef, use veal stock, etc. If the risotto is served as the entrée itself, use what ever liquid you feel is appropriate for you desired finished dish.

To Cream or Not To Cream

The debate among chefs of whether or not to finish their risotto with cream is a passionate one. Traditionally speaking, risotto is not finished with cream; instead, the creaminess is lovingly coaxed out of the starchy kernels of the Arborio rice. Here are some things you need to consider when making the decision “To Cream or Not To Cream.”

  • If you add cream for a creamy texture, I apologize but you are sorely misguided. The creamy texture of your risotto should come from the Arborio rice itself. Remember, you are making risotto, not rice with alfredo sauce.
  • If you add cream for extra body and fat content (fat is always welcomed by the human palate), then you are adding it for the right reason.
  • Take into consideration that when you add fat to anything, it coats the palate, muting other flavors. The more subtle flavors of your risotto will be less detectable, so consider adding more salt or any other predominant seasoning or flavor you want your risotto to manifest.
  • If you are serving your risotto with a more delicate protein, such as fish or poached poultry, I would leave the cream out. It may make your risotto to heavy, and as good as your risotto is by itself, your starch should never overpower your protein, it should always add to it.
  • When adding cream to their risotto, some chefs will whip it into a stiff whip cream and then fold it in. This will not only give the risotto a rich flavor, but also a light and creamy texture.

Restaurant Risotto

Great risotto is a labor of love that can’t be rushed or faked. I’ve seen many different recipes for “quick and easy” risotto, some that even use a microwave, (gasp!). Such culinary sins shall not be condoned on this site. However, did you think that the amazing black truffle risotto with wild forged mushrooms you had at Restaurant Fancy Pants the other night was made to order? Not likely.

With a cooking time of at least 25 minutes or more, restaurant chefs would never be able to make risotto to order. What follows is a basic restaurant technique for “pre-shifting” risotto. This will allow you to cook it ahead of time, and finish it to order.

  • Begin by starting your risotto with the basic technique stated at the top of this article.
  • Cook the Arborio rice until it starts to soften but stop just before it becomes a true al dente.
  • Pour risotto out onto a buttered baking sheet and spread into a thin and even layer.
  • Cool in your refrigerator.
  • When you’re ready to finish your risotto, say, after your dinner guests have arrived and consumed a couple glasses of good wine, bring your cooking liquid of choice (stock, water, etc.) to a simmer in an appropriate sized sauté pan.
  • Add the par-cooked risotto into the simmering liquid, and use the back of a slotted spoon to break up the individual rice kernels by pressing them down into the pan.
  • Gently simmer and stir until the risotto is reconstituted and becomes al dente.
  • Finish with butter, fold in whip cream if you dare, season to taste, and add any other flavorings you wish, such as parmesan, truffle oil, etc.
  • Watch your friends marvel at how quickly you were able to make the most amazing risotto they’ve ever tasted.

*For more information, Listen to The Free Culinary School Podcast Episode 4*

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{ 30 comments… read them below or add one }

Meca Silkowski July 10, 2008 at 1:33 pm

Can you use Arborio Rice to make rice pudding? If you can, should you use water or milk? Would using Arborio Rice be a good way of giving the pudding a creamy texture without using too much cream?

Jacob July 13, 2008 at 6:54 pm

Meca,
Your question has been answered in the comment section of FCS Epsiode 4

lululand October 28, 2008 at 11:40 pm

The best risotto I’ve made so far was with chicken schmaltz for the fat.

Jacob October 29, 2008 at 6:51 pm

@Lululand,

A man after my own heart! Chicken fat is probably one of the most decadent things one could ever ingest.

If you really want a treat, try rendering down the chicken fat from some chicken skin, then use that fat to make your risotto. While you’re making your risotto, put the rendered chicken skin in a 450 degree oven until it becomes nice and crispy, chop it up, and sprinkle it over your finished risotto. Yum!

Thanks for the comment, It’s taking all my self control not to salivate on the keyboard as I write this.

TTown Cook December 5, 2008 at 10:06 pm

You first talk about a pound of rice then you talk about a cup of rice. Is a pound 2 cups of rice?

Jacob December 9, 2008 at 8:21 pm

1 lb of Arborio is just under two cups, but the reference to the cups measurement was meant to be read more like a ratio. So for every 1 part risotto you will need 3 parts hot liquid for the cooking process. Hope this helps.

Scott December 10, 2008 at 9:16 am

Never had Risotto. Seems like I am missing something. Was going to have garlic Mashed Potatoes with a 4 Rib Roast for christmas dinner, but now have decided to give Risotto a shot. Thanks for the podcast, makes driving a truck more enjoyable. You and XM (in that order).

Jacob December 10, 2008 at 10:04 am

Scott,

I’m glad the podcast inspired you to make risotto; and yes, if you’ve never had it you are definately missing something special. Let me know how it turns out, or if there is anything I can do to help.

I too am a HUGE XM radio fan, so your compliment is extremely appreciated.

Good luck with the risotto.

Le Hob December 23, 2008 at 10:15 am

I went to a restaurant the other day with friends and one of them ordered a wild mushroom risotto. He was disappointed by the texture, so I had a taste.
The rice was creamy on the outside, definitely had some bite on the inside, but right in the centre it felt like bits of crumbled rock in my mouth which didn’t agree with me at all. Another friend said that was how it was supposed to be, “just like in Italy”. Is that true?? What texture should the centre of the rice grains be? Is it similar to al dente spaghetti?

Jacob December 25, 2008 at 11:00 pm

It sounds like the risotto was undercooked. A good sign that the risotto is undercooked is if it sticks to your back teeth when chewing. Although it should have good texture, it should never be “crunchy.”

Clematis January 21, 2009 at 1:19 pm

I love to make risotto with my own chicken stock, but I find the flavor is too intense if I allow the stock to reduce too much. I currently make if with about 2/3 intense stock and then finish by adding water…is that “allowed”? :) I taste it over and over near the end of cooking to make sure it has the correct “bite” without being over- or undercooked; I find there is far less of an “oops” margin with risotto than with most other dishes.

Jacob January 28, 2009 at 9:44 pm

@ Clematis,

Actually, when I make restaurant at the restaurant I use a concentrated chicken stock for the par cooking process, and then when I later bring it back “a la minute,” I use water (lovingly referred to as “pipe stock”).

Using water to bring back the risotto allows me to control the finished flavor profile of the risotto, which will usually have other flavors in it, where as the chicken stock is really only there to play a supporting role.

Tom January 31, 2009 at 6:03 pm

London’s River Cafe has an amazing Amarone risotto on its menu – substituting this intense Italian red wine for most of the stock. That’s a bit expensive for me to cook at home, but using a cheaper full-bodied wine (e.g. a good Chilean or Argentinian red) makes a really flavourful risotto – no other ingredients required, but it works well with a bit of fresh rosemary too.

Jacob January 31, 2009 at 11:46 pm

@ Tom,

I’ve eaten risotto like this as well, and if done properly it is absolutely awesome. The one thing to take into consideration though is that you want to get a red wine that doesn’t contain a lot of tannins. Throughout the simmering process, as the red wine reduces and you add more, it can very easily become way to “tanic”, overpowering anything else that’s a part of the dish.

Michael March 10, 2009 at 3:12 pm

When making a mushroom risotto using dehydrated mushrooms, do the mushrooms need to be rehydrated before putting them in the risotto or will the stock rehydrate them during cooking?

Mommycook March 11, 2009 at 3:29 pm

My last batch of risotto came out a little gummy and gooey. What might I have done wrong? I don’t think it was overdone because it still had that firmness in the center. Added hot homemade chicken stock in ladles as it cooked off. Ideas?

Jacob March 12, 2009 at 7:35 pm

@ Mommycook,

My guess is, (without tasting your risotto), that you probably just over-reduced the liquid in the risotto. This is the most common reason why your risotto may have been gummy. You want your risotto to be loose, but not to the point where the cooking liquid runs all over the plate.

Next time just try adding a little bit more stock, and finishing with some whole butter which will also help to loosen the risotto up a bit.

Jacob March 12, 2009 at 7:36 pm

@ Michael,

When using dehydrated mushrooms for risotto, I like to actually rehydrate them first in some water, and then use that water as part of all of your cooking liquid. You can also try toasting the dried mushrooms in a little butter before adding the arborio, and then the addition of the stock or cooking liquid will re-hydrate them.

Bo April 3, 2009 at 9:44 pm

I have recently had risotto with pan seared scallops and I have to admit it has had me searching further on”how to” as that dish was absolutely stunning and incrediable.
There was no desert I could come up with in my mind to compliment or further that dining experience.
So I had a small sniffer of Grand Manier (orange flavored liquer) and wish I had more risotto & scallops ever since.

As I live in the desert Southwest of the USA, I would like to know where to best find for purchase the arborio rice as it is just not available in my World.

Any & all information would be very much apprecitated.
Thanks, Bo

Jacob April 6, 2009 at 8:55 pm

@ Bo,

I’m with you on the whole dessert thing. Although I sometimes get a craving, a I prefer to end my meal with a good Armanac. If you’re looking for some Arborio Rice, you can order some here. Hope this helped.

Esther July 12, 2009 at 12:38 am

I’m new to your podcast and I am hooked!

I’ve grown up eating “jook” and I believe the Chinese call it “congee”. I was wondering what the difference is between jook and risotto besides the different rice.

I usually cook jook by cooking the rice as I normally would, but with extra water. Then, before the water is all evaporated I add in more water and keep stirring. I add more water if needed to get the right consistency. I always add crushed non-toasted pine nuts (using a mortar & pestle) into the jook. Most Koreans eat jook without the pine nuts and add a soy sauce mixture (soy sauce, sliced green onions, toasted sesame seed, Korean red pepper powder). I personally like to make the pine nut jook and eat it with “kim” (toasted salted seaweed) for the salty flavor.

Thank you!
Esther

Steve July 19, 2009 at 12:58 am

When jook is fully cooked, there is no texture to the rice. It’s completely cooked, falling apart, and is very mushy. Risotto is much less liquidy, and all of the rice kernels are intact, with a good firm texture to it. The starch sauce that is coaxed from the rice as it is cooking makes it creamy. There’s no real way to make something resembling risotto from Asian long grain rice, as it either comes out way too soft with too much water, or for firm al-dente-ish kernels, there is no creaminess at all. You’d have to use added starch to make it even close, and that wouldn’t be risotto at all, as the texture of the rice is too different from Italian rices.

That said, I love jook with the black and green preserved duck eggs, veggies, and sliced pork or beef. It’s really good.

Jacob July 28, 2009 at 12:58 am

@ Steve,

Sounds great…sort of a savory version of rice pudding. I’ll have to try this one out.

Jacob July 28, 2009 at 1:27 am

@ Esther,

The true difference is really in the starchiness of the rice. The slow cooking process extracts the starch from the rice granules which gives risotto its natural creaminess. You can still use the risotto method of cooking on other starchy ingredients, but there’s something special about the short, fat, starchy granules of Arborio rice that make risotto what it is.

Mario September 3, 2009 at 6:20 pm

Jacob, great write-up. If been starting to play around with risotto after a trip to Italy. My favorite incarnation so far is a combination of pancetta, porcini and sage. I was wondering what you think the right consistency of the finished risotto should be? I’ve seen pretty much everything from dry enough to eat with a fork (or even chop sticks) to quite soupy.

Jacob September 14, 2009 at 10:27 pm

For me the proper consistency of risotto is creamy enough to sit in a loose pile on the plate without any liquid leaching away from the risotto. If you can form it in a ring mold then its too tight.

Kay January 18, 2010 at 3:37 pm

Oh, no!
I just registered on your site, Jacob, and I think I got off on the wrong foot. I replied to tcarter on the “Starches” forum about using a pressure cooker to make my risotto.

Then I read this: “Great risotto is a labor of love that can’t be rushed or faked. I’ve seen many different recipes for “quick and easy” risotto, some that even use a microwave, (gasp!). Such culinary sins shall not be condoned on this site.”

Sorry! I’m a home cook and obviously have a lot to learn.

Robin January 24, 2010 at 5:40 pm

I made risotto for the first time tonight, and it came out REALLY thick and gluey. It was actually hard to eat, it was so solid. I read in an earlier comment that it maybe could have been because I over-reduced the stock, but when I tasted the rice, it seemed undercooked and so I kept adding stock and cooking longer (it ended up taking more than 30 minutes for 1.5 cups of arborio rice). Should I cook over a lower heat? Should the rice be rinsed before cooking? I’ve read that you should and shouldn’t in different places. Please set me straight!

Constantine February 22, 2010 at 6:36 am

Robin – that sounds like undercooked rice.

There is no need to rinse the rice.

You can also use Carnaroli rice.

The stock should be water thin but full flavoured and seasoned. It should not coat the back of a spoon.

Ignore the recipe / packet cooking times. Just keep adding stock a little at a time, stirring constantly and tasting often until it is done (you’ll know)

When done take off the heat, finish with one more ladle of stock (it will be absorbed and will keep the dish from congealing before you serve) then depending on your risotto finish with fresh herbs / butter / parmesan / truffle oil / truffle shavings / crab meat etc etc

Teddy Devico February 22, 2010 at 5:27 pm

Carnoli rice is superior to arborio rice because it is shorter and fatter, resulting in a more creamier risotto.

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