A Cheater’s Guide To Green Emulsions

by Jacob Burton on September 6, 2008

An emulsion is the mixture of two elements that normally would not mix together. Notice how I said “elements,” instead of liquids, because technically oil is not a liquid (but that’s another blog post).

When making an emulsion, you are basically suspending one of the elements (usually oil) in the other element (water). The most common culinary forms of emulsions are sauces such as mayonnaise, beurre blancs and hollandaise. Other non-culinary emulsions include floor and furniture waxes, asphalt and cosmetic creams.

Making a “green” emulsion using herbs and vegetables presents a separate hurdle in itself. Most culinary emulsions are created using machine mixers, food processors, and most commonly blenders. All these machines create friction which cause heat.

As we discussed in The Free Culinary School Podcast Episode 3 |The Basics of Blanching, chlorophyll molecules are responsible for the green pigment in most herbs, leafy greens and green vegetables. Exposing chlorophyll molecules to prolonged periods of heat, such as the rotating blade of a blender while making an emulsion, will cause the molecule to break down, giving your emulsion a drab, brownish-green color.

To counteract this, there is a specific process that I follow when making a “green emulsion,” that contains green herbs or vegetables such as basil, parsley, or spinach.

To Make The Green Emulsion

You will need:

  • Your blanched greens of choice (don’t through out your ice bath, we’ll be using it again later).
  • Some secondary flavorings if you choose (here I’m using blanched garlic).
  • A good complimentary vinegar (here I’m using an Italian made Thyme Vinegar; other vinegars such as sherry, pear and champagne vinegar also work well).
  • Canola Oil or another light colored, neutral flavored oil
  • And Xanthan Gum (will aid in the emulsification)

The Xanthan Gum is what really makes this all possible. It is next to impossible to put pure water in a blender and stream in oil without the emulsification breaking. Basically, the whole process in a nutshell is to make your emulsified base, and then blend in the greens right at the end to minimize its exposure to heat.

Green Emulsion Process

  • In a high powered blender, (a Vita Mix is the Professional Standard), place water, blanched garlic (or other secondary flavoring), and a small amount of Xanthan Gum. The amount of water is based on how much of the emulsion you will want to make. A good rule of thumb is 3oz per 1 cup of oil.
  • Note on Xanthan Gum: The amount of Xanthan Gum isn’s an exact measurement. It is there to aid in emulsification. No matter if I’m making a half batch or a full batch, I really only use enough to fit on the tip of a spoon.
  • Blend the water, garlic and Xanthan Gum on medium speed until evenly blended.

  • Once primary ingredients are blended together, start to slowly drizzle in your oil. As the emulsion starts to thicken, turn the blender onto high and continue streaming in oil.
  • As the emulsion gets thicker and thicker, the hole that is created in the center of the blender by the moving blades will become more narrow. This is a good visual guide as to how thick your emulsion is getting.
  • Once your emulsion is the desired thickness, add in your blanched greens. Carefully use the bottom of a ladle to push the greens down towards the blender blade. (See photo bottom left)
  • Stir the ladle using an up and down circular motion to help quickly incorporate the greens. Speed during this step is key. The blender blades have made your emulsion hot, so you want to act quickly to avoid them turning brown. Note: Be very careful not to push the ladle down enough to come into contact with the blade of your blender.

Once your greens are completely incorporated into your emulsion, quickly pour them out into a wide bottom, metal container and place the container into your ice bath. Stir vigorously with your ladle to cool off quickly. This will help keep your emulsion green.

At this point you can taste your emulsion and season using salt, pepper, or any other number of spices that you would like. You can also finish with a good truffle or olive oil. Store in your refrigerator until ready to use.

If you’re looking for a more refined look and mouth feel, you can always pass your emulsion through a strainer.

Further Information and Resources

Share and Enjoy:
  • Digg
  • del.icio.us
  • Facebook
  • StumbleUpon
  • Technorati
  • RSS
  • Twitter

{ 2 comments… read them below or add one }

chas July 1, 2009 at 7:59 am

by the way;
a MUCH less expensive alternative to Xanthan Gum as an emulsifier is:
vitamin E;
found in drug-stores in the (where else) vitamin aisle.
It usually comes in little gelatine capsules – less than 1cm long – maybe 1/2cm wide — to get the Vitamin liquid out just prick the capsule and squeeze.
One ‘capsule’s ‘ worth of the liquid is enough for 250 ml, ( 1 cup) of oil/vinegar dressing … and variations, of course.
To my fellow Canucks – Happy Canada Day!

Jacob July 28, 2009 at 1:59 am

@ Chas,

Nice tip Chas.

The reason why I like Xanthan Gum as an emulsifier is because it is completely neutral in taste and it takes a very small amount to accomplish your goal. The link to the Xanthan Gum that I supplied in this post leads you to an expensive product, I will admit. But there are other, cheaper brands of Xanthan Gum out there that will work as emulsifiers, but this is the purest product that I’ve ever used and it works really good. Other forms of Xanthan Gum go from emulsifying/thickening to turning something into a slimy pudding consistency.

I just couldn’t recommend the other Xanthan Gums because I don’t stand behind them. However, if you’re still interested in alternatives, check out ChefRubber.com. They have a decent Xanthan Gum product you can by that is the next best thing to the one I recommend.

Leave a Comment